Basingstoke Calling - Spring 2025 - Week 3

 Monday 17th March - Stoke Bruerne to Cosgrove

A dull start to the day with cloud so low that it caused very light drizzle.  However, it is St Patrick’s Day and the Boat Inn is flying the Irish flag.  First of 7 locks today, Ella is approaching as Dave fills the lock.  The locks here have duplicate locks built in order to save time following the advent of the railways but the amount of time saved was insignificant and they became disused after about 30 years.

The locks also had side pounds to conserve water on the flight of locks.  These are no longer used and there has been a pump installed to return the water back to the top of the locks.  Last year we used the Watford Locks which still uses the side ponds to great effect.

By the time we had got to the end of the 7 locks the pounds between the locks were getting lower and lower and at this stage it was essential to keep the boat in the centre of the canal.  As I was turning to enter the lock the boat began to tip as it came up against the side of the canal, not a pleasant feeling, but we did manage to get safely into the lock.

Then it was a pleasant run down into Cosgrove where we moored for the night just in front of the Ornamental Bridge.  The bridge is a Grade II listed monument and is one of only two stone ornamental bridges on the Grand Union Canal. 

We went for a walk down to the Iron Trunk Aqueduct carrying the canal across the River Great Ouse.  In order to cross the river there were 2 sets of four locks going down and back up the other side, with the need to get across the river safely as well.  In order to save water and time a wooden aqueduct was originally built which soon fell into the water and was replaced by the Iron Trunk Aqueduct.

It is similar to the Pontcysyllte in Wales because there is no safety rail on the opposite side to the towpath but is much shorter in length.

On our way back into Cosgrove we found this tunnel under the canal. The tunnel was built for horses to walk through to the Blacksmith’s yard and stables behind the Barley Mow.  Running from the Church, between the churchyards to the west side of the Horse Tunnel is a railed pathway called the Coffin Walk. It is believed locally that this was constructed to carry the dead from canal boats to their burials.

6.25 miles, 7 locks, 3hrs 42mins

Tuesday 18th March - Cosgrove to Milton Keynes

A lovely sunny start this morning, so we left our mooring and headed down to the services to deal with water and rubbish.  We then moved down to the first lock of the day.  

This is the volunteer working party, working on the restoration of the Buckingham Canal.  Leaving the Grand Union Canal at Cosgrove, a short stretch of the Old Stratford Arm is used for moorings.  The aim is to restore the Old Stratford Arm and its extension, the Buckingham Arm, through to the town of Buckingham.

We moored in Wolverton, Milton Keynes so that Dave could find the Tesco Superstore and top up on essentials.  This sculpture is called ‘Reaching Forward’ and is one of over 230 public works of art in the city. 

The Train Mural beside the Grand Union Canal at Wolverton was originally painted in 1986 by Bill Billings, Artist-in-Residence of Milton Keynes Development Corporation, under an Urban Aid Scheme run by the Branch.  Members have looked after the mural since it was painted.  A major refurbishment was carried out in 2011.

We found a pleasant mooring in the Willen district and went for a walk to find the Peace Pagoda.  It is the first of its kind in the Western hemisphere, and was built by the monks and nuns of the Nipponzan Myohoji, a spiritual movement that promotes pacifism (non-violence). Local people also took part in the building, helping to create a sense of community in the early days of Milton Keynes.  Peace Pagodas are traditional buildings of the Buddhist faith, created to symbolise and promote peace and unity of all people and many were built following the dropping of atomic bombs for the first time.  

We also found the Medicine Wheel, The Circle of Hearts Medicine Wheel was built by people from Milton Keynes to welcome the new millennium and to bring spiritual peace and harmony to the wounded earth. It embraces, and is beyond, all sects and religions and harnesses the earth’s powerful energies to help the development of spiritual growth.

From there we walked to the Tree Cathedral, a unique cathedral in Milton Keynes, not made of bricks and mortar but of bark and leaves. The Tree Cathedral at Newlands is based on the outline of Norwich Cathedral and was designed in 1986 by landscape architect Neil Higson.  The Midsummer energy line extends from Midsummer Boulevard, through Campbell Park Belvedere, the Tree Cathedral and the Circle of Hearts Medicine Wheel to the island in Willen North Lake.

7.25 miles, 1 lock, 3hrs 48mins

Wednesday 19th March - Milton Keynes to Bottom of Soulbury Locks

We left Milton Keynes on a bright sunny morning and began making our way towards Soulbury Locks.

Around Bridge 82 is the proposed Bedford to Milton Keynes waterway, 20 miles of broad canal.  This proposed new waterway will run from the Grand Union Canal at Campbell Park, in Milton Keynes, cross the M1 between junctions 13 and 14, run near Brogborough Hill, through Marston Vale and connect with the river Great Ouse at Kempston, a suburb of Bedford.

We got to Fenny Stratford and found the lock with a swing bridge in the middle.  Fenny Stratford lock (also known as Fenny Lock 22) is unusual because its primary purpose was to overcome a leakage problem in the canal north of the lock and to maintain consistent water levels.  That is why it is only 1ft 1inch drop.  The swing bridge was put in to allow the farmer access to his land.

Once through the lock we moored up for waste disposal and water and I took Toby for a walk over the bridge and into the woods.  I met an old man sat outside his cottage and he said to listen out for the chiffchaff and sure enough it was very clear.  We stood under the tree in the woods where the bird was singing but it was impossible to get a photo.

We continued on until reaching Soulbury Locks and moored below them for the evening.

8.5 miles, 2 locks, 1 swingbridge, 3hrs 54mins

Thursday 20th March - Soulbury Locks to below Leighton Lock

The next morning was bright and sunny so we set off for the locks and were delighted to see a whole team of volunteer lock keepers on duty.  It really is wonderful to have help through these locks as they are hard work for one person.

A lovely cruise towards Leighton Buzzard and we found a lovely mooring below Leighton Lock and about a mile out of the town.  

I was pleased to see our first ducklings of the year, very tiny following mum around and generally making a lot of noise!

We walked into Leighton Buzzard and had a wander around the town.  We found the Market Cross, it was listed by the former Department of Environment as Grade II*, of special interest and particular importance. The present cross dates from the 15th century. Given that a market has been held in Leighton Buzzard since at least 1086, and possibly back into the Anglo-Saxon period, it seems possible that the present cross replaces an older structure.

This is Leighton Buzzard’s market hall which has had a variety of uses, one of which was a fire station.  I was intrigued by the wooden clock tower, it looks at odds with the red brick building.

It was so warm when we got back to the boat that we sat outside on the towpath for our lunch, the first time this year!

3.25 miles, 3 locks, 1hr 42mins

Friday 21st March - Leighton Buzzard to Below Bridge 116

A cloudier day, but still forecasted to be dry.  We set off from our mooring and headed up through Leighton Buzzard.  We were amazed by the size of this pollarded tree in the garden of a bungalow.  It must be quite an old tree.

There is also a very large hire base here, Wyvern Shipping Co. Ltd.  Their season starts from the Easter holidays, all the boats look as though they have had some TLC over the winter months.

A real sign of spring, the goat willows are just breaking out in their catkins.  Also known as the pussy willow, the male catkins of the goat willow look like a cat’s paws. It supports lots of wildlife, including the elusive and regal purple emperor butterfly.

We are approaching Church Lock and you can clearly see two bridge holes, a large one which we are going to use and a narrow one to the right.  In the early years of the canal, water shortages were experienced and to help this out a series of narrow locks were duplicated alongside the wide locks.  This allowed narrow beam boats to use less water and helped the canal cope better with its growing traffic.  

The chapel at this lock was once the smallest chapel in Buckinghamshire.  It is now a private residence.  Medieval and post medieval church of St Michael at Church Lock.

We found a delightful mooring below Slapton Lock and went for a walk as far as the lock.  We were surprised to see water cascading over the lock beams, this is the first time we have seen it this year.

4 miles, 3 locks, 3hrs

Saturday 22nd March - Slapton to Marsworth

The lock cottages on this canal are quite distinctive, many painted white, double fronted and with gabled roofs.

As I was approaching this lock I came in too soon to drop Dave off for the lock and managed to ground the boat against the side of the canal.  It took much pushing and shoving with the barge pole to get the boat out of the mud so that I could pull into the lock landing properly!  Whoops!

Looking across at Ivinghoe Beacon, 757ft above sea level.  Ivinghoe Beacon is the hill where The Ridgeway begins/ends in the Chilterns. Far-reaching views make the hilltop a popular viewpoint and there are also remains of a hillfort and a trig point.

There appear to be many of these disused pump houses along this stretch of the Grand Union. Historically, water supply was a constant problem on canals. The earliest reservoirs date from the 1760s and over time they were supplemented by pumping stations that raised water from wells or rivers, or re-circulated it by back-pumping at locks.  At the height of their extent, in 1906, the Birmingham Canal Navigations were served by 17 pumping stations and six reservoirs. 

We moored up in the village of Marsworth and Toby and I found The New Moon Morris Dancers outside the Red Lion.  It’s been a long time since I’ve seen Morris Dancers and these were richly decorated in bright colours.

This is Marsworth Wharf, originally an underused post-war concrete batching plant and waterways depot. There are now 13 stunning new environmentally friendly houses, together with the sympathetic conversion of the Tringford Pumping Station.

This is All Saints Church in Marsworth.  There are records of a church in Marsworth since the 12th century, and it was extended into its present form in the 14th and 15th centuries.  By the 19th Century the church was in a poor state of repair but was rescued by the Vicar the Rev F W Ragg (1880-1905) with the help of villagers.

4.5 miles, 9 locks, 4hrs

Sunday 23rd March - Marsworth to Bulbourne via Wendover Arm

We woke this morning to mist over the canal and grey skies.  However we decided to get going and make our way along to the Wendover Arm and explore it for a second time thinking that they may have made headway with the restoration.

We liked this cottage with a traditional thatched roof and a dear little chicken coop in the garden with a variety of different chickens.

We passed the new houses and the entrance to the Aylesbury Arm We explored this arm last time we were here and decided that we wouldn’t do it again.

We had 7 locks to climb today and after the first one there was a great view of the surrounding reservoirs with plenty of open space for moorings.  We shall definitely use these next time we come this way.

The lock keepers cottage just above the middle lock, in very nice condition.

We have learnt a new way to work these wide locks.  When going up, you open the gate paddle on the opposite side to the boat then open the ground paddle on the same side as the boat.  This keeps the boat pinned against the lock wall and you can then open the remaining paddles as and when you are ready.  This contrary to our beliefs, but works and makes for a smoother rise in the lock.

At the top of the locks is the entrance to the Wendover Arm, which we decided to explore again, just as an extra.  We turned into the arm and thought it seemed very shallow, but kept going as it has a reputation for shallow and it could have been not many boats had used it yet this season.

Progress was extremely slow, but Dave kept us updated and we were within 500m of the end when we came across the canal closed and dewatered!  We couldn't get to the winding hole to turn round and there was nowhere to stop and moor. 

So…the Wendover Arm is 2km and we had gone 1.5km and we had to return backwards the same 1.5km.  And yes it was very shallow, weedy silted!

The journey took us 3 hours in total with one visit down the weed hatch to get rid of weeds.  By the time we got back to the junction I was so exhausted that we decided to moor at the earliest opportunity and stop for the day.  Lesson to be learnt - always check stoppages on Canal and River Trust before embarking on a change of plan. We didn't, but it is there - A 0.5km section of the Wendover Arm has been closed to alleviate continual water losses on the network and to support a dewatered investigation of canal.

3.5 miles, 7 locks, 4hrs 42mins

Basingstoke Calling Spring 2025 - Week 2

 Tuesday 11th March - Ventnor Marina to Green Sheds

Today we begin our big cruise for real.  The stoppage on the Buckby Flight should be completed by 14th March and we can head south along the Grand Union Canal.

So, to begin with a short cruise as far as Bridge 103 and the green sheds.  On the way we passed these water vole habitats.  Coir rolls are placed between wooden poles with a cross pole to allow the voles access in and out of the canal.  These pre-planted coir rolls provide water voles with the perfect conditions, with sheltered burrowing sites and lush vegetation where they can forage and hide from predators.

Approaching Bridge 103 where we will moor up on the other side for the night. It has been extremely cold on the back of the boat, the wind has been quite bitter.

Our overnight mooring, with a weeping willow in the foreground just developing its very new leaves for this year.

A beautiful sunset this evening.

3 miles, 3 locks, 1hr 48mins

Wednesday 12th March - Bridge 103 to Braunston Bottom Lock

We decided to move the boat on into Braunston hoping to buy some more wood for the log burner, it has turned much colder than we anticipated so must stock up!

On the way we passed this bankside mooring being advertised.  It all looked a bit overgrown and very damp in places, the sign said £360 per month.  We thought that was very expensive!

Just coming into Braunston with the twin bridges.  We are going to turn right and look for a nice mooring. We eventually stopped above the bottom lock, near the Boat Shop where we bought 3 nets of wood.

Dave also contacted Canal and River Trust concerning Lock 13 on the Buckby Flight and were very pleased to hear that they are ‘good to go’ on 14th March at 4pm.  Excellent news!

Supper tonight is being cooked on the log burner, jacket potatoes are in the ash can and the casserole is on the trivet, worked an absolute treat and was delicious!

3.5 miles, 1 lock, 1hr 18mins

Thursday 13th March - Braunston

We are spending a day in Braunston as we are a day in hand for the opening of Lock 13 on the Buckby Flight.  We walked into the village and had a coffee in the Community Cafe, we got talking to some of the ladies having coffee and learnt a lot about the cafe.  It is owned by a lady who lives in the house and the community pay a peppercorn rent of 20p a year to have the cafe there.  It has been there for 15 years and before that it was a charity shop, launderette and a cake shop.  It is still thriving today!

Friday 14th March - Braunston to Norton Junction

A bright but cold and frosty start to the morning with the promise of sunny spells, so all good!

There was a single lock keeper on duty who helped  us through one lock and then disappeared.  Each of the locks has a well tended little garden area, just coming alive with bright spring flowers.

Working our way up the locks, all very gently and calmly.  Toby enjoying his new position on the roof of the boat, where he can see Dave and I and keep an eye on things generally. 

  

The final lock of the day and I was amazed at the amount of noise coming from the rookeries in the tops of these trees.  Rooks are early nesters, and from February they can be seen flying back to their rookery carrying comically large sticks as they seek to repair winter damage. They do make me laugh!

Toby keeping a watchful eye out whilst Dave waits for the lock to fill.  After this lock we headed through Braunston Tunnel where we didn’t meet another boat, so it was really quite enjoyable.  We then travelled as far as the Junction and moored up ready to go down the Buckby Locks tomorrow.

Moored up at Norton Junction and the towpath was very wet indeed!  We just managed to position the boat so that we didn't step off into a lake!

A stunning sunset, looking back towards Rugby.

3.5 miles, 5 locks, 2hrs 42mins

Saturday 15th March - Norton Junction to Bridge 27 Flore Lane Bridge

We left our mooring on a bright sunny morning and headed down to the service point above the first lock to dispose of rubbish and fill up with water.  

Dave has set the lock and I am just coming round boats moored on the lock landing in order to enter the lock and begin our descent.

The weather continued to be bright and sunny with little or no wind, which made for a very pleasant cruise down the locks.  Dave walked all the way whilst I drove the boat.

Here we are approaching Lock 12 which is also having work done to it.  I think I confused the boat coming towards me, you are meant to pass on the right but I chose to tuck in behind the work boat to give him plenty of room to get past!

There was no work being done on the locks today but there was plenty of evidence of what had been happening.

New gates and new paddle mechanism with the cleanest grease we have ever seen on the winding shafts.

Lock 13 with new gates, lock beams, grab handles and also new lock ladders.  All very pristine and much easier to work than we remembered them 4 years ago.

We left the locks behind us and headed out towards Weedon.  This is Weedon Wharf, I just love the reflection of the clouds in the canal here. Weedon Wharf, now known as The Depot Weedon, was a Royal Ordnance Depot built in the early 1800s to store military supplies, including gunpowder and firearms, and transported via the Grand Junction Canal, serving the British Army from the Napoleonic Wars to the end of National Service

A stunning sunset taken from the front of the boat.

6 miles, 7 locks, 3hrs 30mins

Sunday 16th March - Flore Lane Bridge 27 to Stoke Bruerne Waterways Museum

Our mooring overnight was opposite a field for caravan parking.  We woke this morning to a hard frost which gradually melted away as the sun came up.  Unfortunately the sun didn’t last and it was very cold and drizzly most of the day. 

A very pleasant property,  beautifully restored and with three floors and an attic space.  The grounds looked very pretty as well.

A very sad sight, I wonder how long that has been there?

This was extremely eye catching, there were monkeys hanging in the trees and giraffes eating the trees.  Toby was not happy with these creatures and made a lot of noise as we passed!

This is Gayton Junction, we are going under the bridge on the right of the picture, but to the left is the turning for the Northampton Arm.  The last time we came this way was 4 years ago to visit Ely for the birth of our grandchildren Remi and Max.

Ahead of us is Blisworth Mill.  Blisworth Corn Mill was built in 1879 by Joseph Westley.  During WWII the warehouse was used to store hundreds of tons of tinned food rations.  Later owners used the warehouse as a bonded store and as a dry foods processing factory - The Pepper & Spice Company - until in 2000 it was converted to residential accommodation as 21 flats.

We then entered Blisworth Tunnel, the third longest navigable tunnel on the system.  It took us just over 29 minutes to get through and we didn’t meet anything coming towards us.  It is quite a wide tunnel with room for two 7ft wide boats to pass each other.  It is also very wet with very noisy curtains of water falling regularly all through the tunnel.

This was on the ground at the southern portal of the tunnel, seemed to suggest it was a cross-section of the centre of the tunnel.  Possibly from when the tunnel was closed for relining in the 1980’s and was opened again 4 years later in 1984 after 4 million pounds was spent on relining the bore.  We moored on the Visitor Moorings in Stoke Bruerne and had lunch at The Boat Inn.

10 miles, 0 locks, 3hrs 30mins