2020 Lock Up Cruise

Monday 20th July - Peartree Farm Moorings to Fotheringhay 

A beautiful start to the day, as we prepare to leave our overnight mooring. A stunning spot, quiet, peaceful and safe!

We stopped at Achurch to put on water, quite a feat in itself as there was a boat moored at the water tap, with nobody on board!  However we managed it, but it was entertaining  to watch these swimmers entering the water behind us and setting off up stream. They insisted that it was really lovely!  

A little further on there were a herd of cows standing in the water, not swimming but certainly very happy to be in the water. 

This Elton Bridge, very picturesque, part of the estate that belongs to Elton Hall. 

Elton Hall has been in the Proby Family for 400 years and was given to Katherine Parr by Henry VIII soon after their marriage.  

On this stretch of the river there were a lot of Red Kites flying quite low over the boat, pleased to catch this one soaring over us.

At the same time we had a white egret flying beside the boat, hopping along the river and keeping us company. 

We have made it to Fotheringhay, with this amazing church, our back garden for the night!  Further along are the ruins of Fotheringhay Castle, Richard III was born here on 2 October 1452, and though tradition says he was baptised at Fotheringhay church, he might equally well have been baptised at the castle chapel. Richard only lived here for six years until he was moved for safety to Ludlow Castle.  
After Richard lost his life at the Battle of Bosworth in 1485 the castle was allowed to decay. Henry VIII granted Fotheringhay to Catherine of Aragon, and Catherine lavished money returning the castle to its former glory.
 In 1586 Mary, Queen of Scots was brought to Fotheringhay from Chartley in Staffordshire to stand trial for treason.  Mary was tried at the castle on 14 and 15 October 1587 in a show trial and predictably found guilty on 25 October - a foregone conclusion and on 8 February 1588 Mary was executed in the great hall. She was laid to rest in Peterborough Cathedral and eventually moved to her final resting place in Westminster Abbey. 

We went for a lovely walk from Fotheringhay to Elton and back, we used to live in these parts before we had children and Elton was a favourite place to visit.  Two of our three children were born in Peterborough. 

12.5 miles, 7 locks, 5 hrs 54 mins. 
Tuesday 21st July Fotheringhay to Peterborough

This morning we made an early start as we wanted to get to Peterborough ready to start the Middle Levels the following day.  A good start as we cruised through Fotheringhay Bridge under brilliant blue skies and sunshine! 

One of our locks was at Water Newton, a very pretty village with a picturesque church and a white car all decked out as a wedding car, very lovely.  The Water Newton Treasure was found in 1975 by a metal detectorist, 7 silver vessels and several plaques, before they were damaged further by a plough!  

Ella moored in Ferry Meadows, we used to live in Peterborough and had our first two girls there.  Many happy hours were spent walking our girls around the lakes in their pram. Especially remember a fireworks evening with a bonfire and fireworks over the lake, except that it was a foggy night and no-one could see anything!  





15.5 miles, 6 locks, 6 hrs 6 mins. 

Wednesday 22nd July - Ferry Meadows to March

We made an early start from Ferry Meadows, we passed Peterborough Cathedral on the way, stopped on the Embankment to top up the water tank and then headed out to Stanground Lock and the Middle Levels!  
At the lock we had to buy a special windlass for the locks and a key to gain access to the locks, this cost £17!  
The locks are 11ft 8ins wide, too narrow for two narrowboats to share, and built especially for the Fenland Lighters, distinctive river-craft that had their heyday around 1700-1850.   In that period, these oak-built freighters chiefly relied on sails, horse-tow, or water currents for propulsion, depending on circumstances.   Generally operating in ‘gangs’ of half-a-dozen or so, linked head-to-tail, the lighters provided heavy transport in a large swathe of England. 

Much of the Middle Levels are ditches that cross the countryside at right angles, they are lower than ground level, dead straight and often quite shallow. However the expanse of sky is amazing!   

This is where one drain crosses another almost at right angles. 

The old river channels through the Fens were probably used for transport during the Middle Ages, but it was the Dutch engineer Vermuyden who developed most of the system during the 1600s. The Middle Level water channels were primarily built for drainage, and that remains their primary purpose today; but they were soon found useful for the transport of agricultural produce, and as such use has faded away, they have become a hidden gem for those seeking solitude on the inland waterways.

18.25 miles, 3 locks, 7 hours. 



Thursday 23rd July - March Marina to Salter’s Lode Lock

The landscape is so flat that it is an ideal opportunity to harness wind power, the cruise today started off quite calm and then the wind got up and these windmills were working well. 

We came into Upwell and Outwell, picturesque fenland villages, but the levels were very shallow and it meant we had to go very slowly to avoid beaching ourselves on the bottom. 

The other thing we discovered was that the bridges are very low, we only just managed to pass under them with everything on the roof, but we both had to duck as we passed under them. 

We continued until we reached Salter’s Lode Lock and moored up for the night.  The lock allows us to pass out of the Middle Levels onto a short section of the Tidal River Ouse, where we turn right and head towards Denver Sluice, the rather impressive structure in the photo. 

This is The Toll House, built on the site of the original Toll House and using the stones from the original building.  Very attractive. 










14.25 miles, 1 lock, 5 hours 54 mins. 

Friday 24th July - Salter’s Lode Lock to Ten Mile Bank GOBA Moorings

This was our mooring at Salter’s Lode.  We had to wait for the high tide at 11am to begin to recede so that we could pass through the lock.  nbIsla was also going through and as they were lower than us they went through the lock first and tied up on the jetty. 

 Paul, the lock keeper, (posing for the photo) was really informative and helpful on what we should and shouldn’t do.  He allowed us to watch nbIsla go through the lock so that we knew what was going to happen to us. 

Watching and listening, as the other boat completed their procedure, I was absolutely fascinated!  Paul has been doing this for 27 years and has some real horror stories to tell about misjudged exits and entrances to this lock!  

Our turn to exit the lock, the tide had receded enough now to allow us to pass safely under the concrete horizontals, and then we followed nbIsla out onto the Tidal Ouse. We made a right turn against the tide and headed towards Denver Sluice. 

We are following nbIsla and there is another boat coming towards us heading for Salter’s Lode.  The only boats allowed to turn left are sea going boats or boats with granted permission as the stretch heads for the Wash and the sea. 

Denver Lock with nbIsla already in place and we pulled in beside them. Ben, the lock keeper, operated the lock for us and we dropped down to join the non-tidal River Great Ouse.  Denver Sluice prevents the tide going up the Ely Ouse, overflowing its banks and flooding the low lying land much of which is below sea level. 

Once we were on the other side, we headed up river to our mooring for the night. The river here is very wide, very calm and remarkably quiet. We moored up for the night at Ten Mile Bank and took Toby for a well earned walk. 

Passed some huge haystacks, towering over us and Toby, then around a private fishing lake, before returning to the boat for the evening. 

A gorgeous sunset to finish off the day, very peaceful, except for the occasional swan and fish jumping out of the water, stunning!  

6 miles, 1 lock, 1 hour 42 mins. 






Saturday 25th July - Ten Mile Bank to Ely

Today we made an early start to cruise into Ely. The wind had picked up overnight and was still blowing quite strongly, as a SW wind it meant it was blowing us against the bank and it took a bit of nifty manoeuvring to get us off the bank and into the middle of the river.  Once under way we cruised against a stiff breeze all the way!  

As we approached Ely the Cathedral stood proud above the flat lands around it. The story of Ely Cathedral begins in Saxon times with its founder Etheldreda, with the present building dating back to the 11th century.  The cathedral stands on the highest hill in the fens, 26m above sea level, and before the fens were drained in the 17th century Ely was an island. 

We moored by The Cutter Inn and were greeted by Laura and Amy who live in Ely which was a lovely surprise.  Then later on we met up with Lizzie and Beatrice and had a browse around the Farmers Market before returning to the boat for tea and cake!  After a lovely walk out to Cawdle Fen and back we said goodbye to our visitors and settled down for a quiet evening on the boat. 

10.5 miles, 2 hours 48 mins. 





Sunday 26th July - Ely to Little Thetford Moorings

We woke to a beautiful morning, blue skies and calm river, so we decided to go for a little cruise out towards Pope’s Corner and the Fish and Duck Marina to get diesel and gas. 

Unfortunately the brilliant start to the day didn’t continue and this shot shows clearly the direction of the prevailing wind!  We got to the Marina but it was busy and windy and we choose not to try and wait so returned to Little Thetford Moorings where we shall stop for the night before we head back to Ely tomorrow. 

Toby standing guard over his domain for the night. We sat on the bank beside the boat as we were sheltered from the wind and later in the afternoon had a walk to Little Thetford and back.

4.75 miles, 1 hour 24 mins

2020 Lock Up Cruise Week 2

Monday 13th July - Nelson’s Wharf to Chambers Bridge 100

 

This morning we woke to find the boat listing towards the canal, the water in the pound had dropped overnight and when we tried to cast off we were stuck on the mud!  It took quite a few attempts to push her off and out into the stream but we did it eventually with      the aid of a pole. 

When we arrived at Calcutt Locks there was a queue as the middle lock was out of action. However, CRT were on site and we were on the move again after about 30 minutes.

Once through the locks we headed for the junction and passed another boat with the same name as ours!  

At the junction we approached very slowly as we could see boats passing in both directions and others turning into the canal we were on. However we crept out into a space, turning left and heading towards Braunston.  We had to stop again quite quickly as there was a boat across the canal, and rather than push our way past it, Dave got off and secured it to the piling with their rope.

We moored up about 2 miles away from Braunston in open countryside and watched many more boats pass us.  This was a pair of working boats, very handsome, especially the butty which had just had a new paint job.  They were celebrating the 50th anniversary of the last Jam ‘Ole Run.  This was the name given to the journey from Atherstone to Brentford carrying coal from the mines to a jam factory by pairs of working boats.






In the afternoon we walked into Braunston to buy some new fenders for the boat and by the time we got back it had started to rain, so we stayed on board and had a quiet evening. 

6.25 miles, 3 locks, 3 hours 6 mins cruising time.


Tuesday 14th July - Chambers Bridge 100 to Brockhall Road Bridge

Today we headed into Braunston and turned right towards the tunnel. We called into the Marina to fill up with diesel, turning into the Marina is fine, but in order to get out you need to reverse out into the canal before carrying on the way you were going.  Lots of people watching, but the procedure went well and all was good! 

Dave worked the locks and all was fine until one of the middle pounds which was incredibly low, CRT were aware of the problem and had got someone on their way to see what the problem was. 

We bought two new mooring lines for the boat and they are one of the best buys we have made.  A short rope with a mooring pin and a loop attached to the dolly on the boat can be quickly dropped into piling from the stern as you come in to moor and a similar longer rope can be dropped into piling from the bow of the boat.  Ideal for short mooring times, quick and easy, very pleased with them!  

This is being asleep on your feet, Toby is finding this way of life quite exhausting, I am working locks and he is determined to stay awake to make sure I am safe.  Bless him, he is walking my 11,000 steps a day with me, raising money for Diabetes UK and he is shattered!  Anyone who would like to donate to this worthwhile cause please visit my challenge page. 

https://step.diabetes.org.uk/pages/janet-2

We moored up for the night at Brockhall, a lovely quiet mooring and opposite was moored a boat named Bedazzled - this company sells LED lighting for boats caravans and camper vans, so I guess they must operate from here. 

9 miles, 13 locks, 1 tunnel, 6 hours 48 mins cruising time.

Wednesday 15th July - Brockhall to Banbury Lane Bridge

We left our mooring and made our way through Weedon Bec, passing the Widgeon Theatre Boat, which has been laid up due to the virus but has been rocking the airwaves apparently!  It is an historic 82 year old narrowboat turned into a bespoke theatrical venue.

We also passed a pair of Jules Fuels boats, featured just recently on a Countryfile programme. Jules fuels is a family of fuel boats which serve the Grand Union Canal from Cowley in the South to Stockton and Brinklow in the North.

Nether Heyford is a very picturesque village with some lovely houses and the canal running through it.  It has the largest village green in the country, two pubs and two churches!

This was an unusual floating residence, a converted container with an outboard motor, most unusual but quite clever. 










We moored up for the night about 1.5 miles away from Gayton Junction, with the turning off the Grand Union Canal onto the Northampton Arm. We went for a walk to check out the junction as that is where we are going tomorrow.  Excited and apprehensive at the same time as this stretch is once again new to us, but really looking forward to it! 

7.5 miles, 2 hours 54 mins cruising time. 

Thursday 16th July - Banbury Lane Bridge to Northampton Marina

This morning we set off early as we are going to Gayton Junction and turn left to descend the Northampton Arm to Northampton. This is very exciting as it is the first time we will have traveled on this canal!  

The junction was surprisingly busy with queueing up to use the facilities in the block to the left of the photo.  The boats also seemed to be caught by a cross wind, so they were going in all directions!  

So, we arrived at the first lock of the flight of 17 locks, the locks are in good condition and were fairly easy to work. The area around the canal is called the Mosaic Nature Trail, which boasts two mosaic panels at each of the locks of the Northampton Arm, one recording an aspect of canal life, the other forming part of the nature trail with a letter identifying the aspect of nature pictured. The trail doubles up as a challenge for children, to collect all the letters and work out the phrase they spell. In return they will be rewarded with a Certificate of Achievement.

The mosaics are of excellent quality and are lovely to look at, I wonder what the phrase would have been?  

As well as the 17 locks there are 3 lift bridges to go through, fortunately 2 were already up and we only had to operate one of them.  All the locks on the arm are narrow locks which means that wide beam boats can travel along the Grand Union but can’t get to the River Nene, unfortunately this was a penny pinching decision which cost the canal companies dearly at the time, and still does today.

We were being tailed at one time by this tern, hovering behind the boat looking for fish being disturbed in our wake.  

I caught the tern just after it had dived into the water and it flew off with a little fish in its beak, you can see the fish if you enlarge the photo, I was most impressed with that shot!  

This final lock of the day took us down onto the River Nene and we moved out of Canal and River Trust and in to Environment Agency responsibility. At the first opportunity we need to buy a licence to allow us to cruise on EA waterways. 

On the banks of the river is a Carlsberg brewery, a huge area smelling overwhelmingly of hops. 

Brewing began in Northampton in 1973 and the brewery building is inspired by a Danish Longship. 










We cruised on into Northampton Marina where we moored for the night and bought our EA licence, very excited to see what the River Nene holds for us tomorrow! 

6.5 miles, 17 locks, 5 hours 24 mins cruising time. 

Friday 17th July - Northampton Marina to Hardwater Mill Moorings

After a pleasant night in the Marina, Dave turned the boat round to put on water, returned the key fob to reception then headed out of the Marina past this heron keeping a beady eye on things. 

The first lock is Northampton Town Lock, a double lock with mitred gates at either end, fairly straight forward And easy to operate. 

We cruised past a lovely family of swans working their way down river in the sunshine.  

This is Billing Aquadrome, many years ago when our girls were tiny tots, we camped here on a visit to see my sister who was living in Wellingborough at the time. 

This is one of the guillotine locks, quite daunting looking affairs.  You go into the lock through mitred gates and then the guillotine is electrically operated in order to empty the lock, it is a case of inserting a key and pushing a button, very straight forward, but you do have to dodge the drips as you pass under the gate!  

At Earls Barton Lock we were kept company by these two handsome ponies, although Toby really wasn’t all that impressed with them. They both used the gate as a scratching post!  

We moored for the night on one of the Friends of the River Nene moorings, at Hardwater Mill, very peaceful and quiet. The mill is a holiday cottage and they have an Archimedes screw to provide the property with hydro power and have also created an eel pass. 







9.75 miles, 10 locks, 6 hrs cruising time. 

Saturday 18th July - Doddington Lock to Little Addington Moorings

Early morning start, a good shot of Ella waiting on a mooring pontoon to go through a lock, the skies seem so huge around here!  

All of the locks have been unusual to us, but this one is even more unusual!  It is Ditchford Radial Lock, a guillotine lock which is pivoted from below and passes up and over the boats, most odd to watch from inside the lock.

We moored up for the evening at Little Addington Moorings and went for a walk up the hill to the village and then back down to the river.  A very pretty little village which seems to indulge in an annual bread throwing competition!

On our way back to the boat we passed the next lock we come to.  Up to now these guillotine locks have been electrically key operated, but this one is manual, a lot of turns of this big wheel to lift and drop the guillotine!  Should be fun!  






11 miles, 6 locks, 5 hours 12 mins cruising time. 

Sunday 19th July - Little Addington to Peartree Farm Moorings

Dave working the manual lock mechanism, it took lots of turns of the wheel to get this gate up and down!  

We found some brave people swimming in the river at about 10 o’clock this morning, they said it was actually lovely, but I don’t think I would be tempted at the moment. 

This was once upon a time a railway bridge which has been dismantled, leaving the remains of the arches in the water, it now has a pipe bridge that we need to go under instead.  

At Islip Lock it suddenly got very busy with boats moving in all directions, we actually got to share a lock with a small river cruiser, they were very brave, but we didn’t bump them  and no damage was sustained in this event!  







We continued to Peartree Farm Moorings and pulled over to moor up for the evening.  The mooring is on a small piece of land between the River Nene and a small brook, you can only access it by boat so it is very secure and safe.  
So the end of our second week and we have traveled a good distance.  Thoroughly enjoyed the cruising and the weather has been kind to us, next week we shall continue along the Nene and possibly onto the Middle Levels, another new challenge for us!  

8.75 miles, 5 locks, 5 hours 6 mins cruising time.