Monday 23rd August - Tom o’ the Wood to Wootton Wawen
Well, we made our decision and at Kingswood Junction we turned left onto the Stratford Canal and headed down to Stratford and the River Avon! We have gone from wide locks to narrow locks and many of these bridges that were designed to let the horse rope pass through the centre of the bridge.
The locks seem particularly cosy and snug, especially after the wide locks of the Grand Union Canal and all the river locks we have worked over the past few weeks.
This is a close up of the gap between the bridges allowing the horse rope to slide along, it saved time not having to disconnect the horses and reconnect after each bridge.
A cottage with a barrel roof, these are only found on the south Stratford Canal, built originally for the lengthsmen who looked after the stretches of canal between certain locks. The engineers who built them were more used to building bridges so adopted similar techniques to build the houses.
Toby was being very patient, waiting for Dave to bring the boat in before continuing on to the next lock.
Another aspect of the canal which is unusual is the locks have single gates both top and bottom, this was a money saving device, but apparently makes it more difficult for very long boats to use these locks. The mitred gates take up less space and therefore use less water.
This is one of the three aqueducts, Yarningale Aqueduct, on this canal. I am standing on the towpath that runs alongside the canal trough, showing clearly the depth of the water the boat is travelling through.
We moored for the night near Wootton Wawen and went for a walk, firstly to the farm shop and then over the aqueduct and across the fields. Here I really am walking backwards as I was intrigued by the boat attempting to get into the aqueduct.
7 miles, 17 locks, 5 hrs 30 mins
Tuesday 24th August - Wootton Wawen to Stratford-Upon-Avon
Today we set off at 9.30 in order to put diesel on at the hire base, giving them time to send the day boats off before we arrive to clog up the area. We tied up on the aqueduct, speedily filled up and were soon on our way. Dave took this as we sailed over the road, such an odd experience!
A little further on we passed over Edstone Aqueduct, also known as the Bearley Aqueduct, it carries the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal over Salters Lane, the North Warwickshire Railway Line, and a small river. It is the longest canal aqueduct in England measuring 479 ft (146 m) and is unusual in that the towpath is at the base of the canal, not at water level.
The same aqueduct passing over the railway line, a valve was fitted in the aqueduct for steam trains to draw water from the canal and legend has it a train was delayed due to a fish blocking the intake pipe.
This is the final bridge as you approach Bancroft Basin in Stratford. Up to now the canal has been fairly urban and industrial and nothing prepares you for the scene that awaits you as you emerge from the bridge!
The first impression is that there are boats everywhere, wide trip boats, restaurant boats, floating cafes and leisure boats moored in the basin. We didn’t want to stay in the basin, just as well as there wasn’t any room, so we waited for the lock to be free and with the help of a man who prepared the locks for the passenger boats, we descended onto the river and moored up opposite the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. A pleasant stroll around Stratford and then back to the boat for a well earned rest.
7 miles, 18 locks, 5 hrs, 42 mins.
Wednesday 25th August - Stratford to Offenham Lock
We left our mooring in Stratford and moved to the water point to fill up with water, then began our journey to Offenham Lock. This is one of the many old stone bridges we pass under on the way, the sign posting is very clear which arch to use as many of the arches are either too shallow or simply unnavigable.
The river is incredibly flat, very little flow and generally easy to navigate, although coming out of and entering locks is more difficult because of the power of the adjacent weirs. A positive is that you can leave the exit gates open, just need to remember to collect the crew!
This is the bridge at Bidford, there were warnings as we approached for falling masonry, and I discovered that there was a collision on the bridge in July which damaged the parapet. This is another example of making sure you go through the right archway as the centre one is very shallow with a concrete structure in the middle. Built in the early 15th century it has been strengthened at various times, and during times of high water levels, it is often closed to navigation.
This is Havington Lock also known as Robert Aickman New Lock. Robert Aickman led the battle for many years to save the inland waterways from public indifference and hostile official attitudes. A monument to the man can be seen next to the lock. He was instrumental in organising the restoration of the river to navigation and it was opened by the Queen Mother in 1974. We attempted to moor on the pub moorings, but it was too shallow, so we turned the boat into the moorings before Offenham Lock and had a very pleasant night there instead.
14.25 miles, 8 locks, 6 hrs 36 mins.
Thursday 26th August - Offenham Lock to Pershore
At Offenham Lock stands a lighthouse with a plaque dedicated to Eric Pritchard who built the tower and many of the locks and weirs between Evesham and Stratford.
The glasshouses can be seen from the river, these greenhouses are famous for growing tomatoes and other salad ingredients.
As we approached Evesham Lock there were many frogmen measuring the water depth and also a water rescue boat moored up. It can be quite difficult getting into the lock coming downstream as there is a strong cross-current running across the head of the lock. It was quite a challenge to moor the boat safely whilst Dave prepared the lock.
After the lock we came across a chain ferry being pulled across the river, it went across in front of us, then the chain was submerged for us to pass over and then it went across again after we had passed.
Toby was resting on the new pouffee which we bought to rest our feet on, somehow he seems to think we bought it for him!
The last lock before Pershore was this rather strange shape, diamond shape, impossible to fit the boat along the sides of the lock, and difficult to tie her up safely! Our Pearson guide suggested that many of the original Avon locks were of unusual configuration to reduce erosion of the chambers by the force of water from the sluices. Very interesting!
We were lucky to get a good mooring along the recreation ground in Pershore and we went for a wander around the town and the Abbey grounds. Pershore Abbey was one of the largest medieval abbeys in Britain, larger even than Worcester Cathedral. The abbey was destroyed in the Reformation and what remains of the Abbey is the best part: the monk’s Quire (which is now the Nave) with its unique ploughshare vaulting, the combined triforium and clerestory, and the magnificent tower with its lantern and free-standing ringing platform.
14.25 miles, 5 locks, 5hrs 12 mins
Friday 27th August - Pershore to Eckington Bridge
We decided to travel as far as the visitor moorings at Eckington Bridge rather risk going as far as Twekesbury and not being able to find a mooring and then having to carry on to Upton on the Severn, hence making it a very long cruise! This is the Swan’s Neck mooring, we moored here last year and had problems getting off the bank so decided against it this year!
The mooring at Eckington Bridge was much more civilised and we had a delightful walk back through the village to Nafford Lock and back via the Swan’s Neck and the river bank. Toby was delighted to have found us another bench to sit on, despite the fact that it was just outside the boat!
At Nafford lock we found this boat caught on the weir and sunken over time. No idea how long it has been there, but it makes quite a sad picture. This lock has a swing bridge in the middle of the lock giving pedestrian access across the lock.
6.5 miles, 2 locks, 2 hrs 36 mins.
Saturday 28th August - Eckington Bridge to Twekesbury
We left our mooring early fully expecting to have to drop down onto the River Severn but we’re pleasantly surprised to find a space just big enough for us, after a cruiser moved prior to going through the lock. This is a stretch of the river alongside Tewkesbury Marina and it reminded me of the stretch of canal in France just before you emerge onto the Étang de Thau, a mixture of cruiser and sailing boats.
Once we had moored up safely we went for a walk around Tewkesbury. This was taken from Abbey mill at the limit of navigation. Tewkesbury is famous for it's 100's of Medieval Flags, which adorn the buildings in the Town during the summer months. Tewkesbury Battle Field Society organises the production and display of the Medieval Flags. Each flag (banner) relates to the Coat of Arms of a participant in the Battle of Tewkesbury 1471, the last major battle in the Wars of the Roses.
There has been a mill here since 1190, when the monks of nearby Tewkesbury Abbey had a channel dug from the River Avon to power a mill to grind grain. The channel is known as Mill Avon, and extends from the Avon to the Severn at the southern edge of Tewkesbury. The 12th century mill was rebuilt in 1793 with 4 wheels. It remained in operation until 1920, but could not compete with the larger and more modern Healing's Flour Mill, further north along the channel. The mill is now a private residence.
We found the Abbey and sat inside for a short time. The organ was being played and the sound was amazing. The Norman tower is visible from miles away. The present church was originally used as the church for the Benedictine Monastery which was founded here in the 10th Century. After the dissolution of the monasteries, it became the parish church for the town. In addition to some very fine Norman architecture there is 15th century stained glass, unique roof bosses and the 17th century Milton Organ still used today.
This is Healings Flour Mill, when built, it was considered to be the largest and most modern flour mill in the world, producing 25 sacks of flour an hour in 1892. It has had, in the course of it's history, three means of transport in and out of it. It had road access via a handsome cast-iron bridge, rail access via the Tewkesbury to Upton-upon-Severn railway line, and canal / river barge access via the Avon. Barges were used right up until 1998, as the mill had two barges named Chaceley and Tirley which transported grain to the mill from Avonmouth and Sharpness. The mill was purchased by Allied Mills in the 1970s, and was completely refurbished and fitted out with brand new machinery. It was in turn taken over by ADM Milling, but in 2006 they announced the closure of the mill and the loss of around 40 jobs. It milled flour for the last time on October 20th, 2006, ending 140 years of milling on that site.
7.5 miles, 1 lock, 2 hrs 42 mins
Sunday 29th August - Tewkesbury to Worcester
A pleasant 4 hour cruise along the Severn to Worcester, chilly but dry and only a gentle breeze. As it was a Sunday we passed all the empty aggregate boats moored up for the weekend, it was amazing to see so much of the boat above the waterline. When these boats are fully laden they sit extremely low in the water!
Upton-on-Severn, plenty of mooring along the wall, but the pontoon was double parked. Quite pleased we didn’t want to stop as the wall can be difficult to get Toby on and off the boat.
The mooring point for the aggregate boats beneath the chute which fills the boats with their product, then they return downstream to be unloaded.
We moored up on the pontoon below our apartment, just room between two other boats and returned to the flat, in my case the first time in 3 months! We shall put the boat back in the Marina on Tuesday once we have emptied our clothes and food.
16 miles, 2 locks, 4 hrs 6 mins
Some thoughts on our trip:
- how to keep the boat steady when filling a river lock going upstream using the engine and centre line - taught by Stanground Lock keeper
- each river seems to have its own set of rules concerning the locks
- some of the towns and villages have made far more of their river fronts that others have.
- current pandemic has resulted in more boats being purchased and river marinas being full of moored river craft.
- loved exploring the lodes and tributaries of the river Great Ouse.
- volunteer lock keepers have been worth their weight in gold, all we have met have been wonderful and cheerful!
- solar panels installed in May have been marvellous, batteries have topped up whatever the weather.
- finally upgraded the wifi router, antennae and fire stick on the boat, reception should be better all round now.
- we now carry 4x 5ltr water bottles especially for drinking water, rather than drinking from water stored in the tank.
- an excellent trip which enabled us to spend time with our new grandchildren over in Ely and further explore the eastern waterways.
