Basingstoke Calling Spring 2025 - Week 9

 Monday 28th April - Pangbourne to Goring

The promise of lovely sunny weather with very light winds so time to cruise!

We left our mooring and headed for the lock.  We passed under Whitchurch Toll Bridge.  There has been a toll bridge here since 1792 and the current bridge is the fourth bridge which opened in September 2014.

On Shooters Hill there are seven Gothic-style houses known as the "Seven Deadly Sins". They were built in 1896 by the shop magnate D.H. Evans. There are alternative theories about the name "seven deadly sins". One is that they were built by D H Evans to house his mistresses, but another is that they were in fact built to house seven lady friends of the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII).

I love this time of year as the greens are so varied, passing Child Beale we were impressed by the palate of greens on the river bank and moving up the hillside.

As we approach Goring we found the glass box hanging over the river.  It was designed by the architect who did the painting of Ella when we were moored in Goring 5 years ago.

We went for a wander through Goring and then across the bridge to Streatley.  This is taken from the bridge looking back at Ella on the mooring and you can see that it is incredibly quiet.  By late evening we had been joined by two other boats, but that is still unusual as the moorings are generally full along here.

The church in Streatley has a blue plaque saying that Lewis Carroll, who wrote Alice in Wonderland, preached here in 1864.  He stayed in the Vicarage in Vicarage Lane.

Ella in almost the exact spot where she was painted by Professor Alan Brooks back in 2019.  The painting is on the wall in the apartment in Worcester.

4.25 miles, 1 lock, 1hr 42mins

Tuesday 29th April - Goring to Wallingford

Another bright sunny morning so we continued on to the next lock where we could fill up with water.  The lock keeper was very helpful as he showed us where the water hose was ready for us to use.  Toby is sitting in the shade of the tree watching the world go past.

On our journey up river we passed many huge riverside properties.  This photo attempts to show the vast amounts of land some of these properties have, the house is way back in the distance!

Approaching Wallingford is a sign welcoming us to the town with information on where the moorings are.

We moored on the left hand side but it was a very high mooring and we struggled to get Toby on and off the boat both at the front and the back.  So we shuffled across to the other side of the river where the moorings were more narrowboat friendly, moored beside the open area swimming pool which was being prepared for the summer season.



6 miles, 2 locks, 2hrs 18mins

Wednesday 30th April - Wallingford to Clifton Lock

We decided to move on today and weren’t really sure where we were going to end up.  We passed this boat which must have been a casualty of the river flooding.  Floated up onto the bank and got stuck as the water fell again.  Not sinking as such, but it would be difficult to refloat without flooding the inside.

We are heading towards Day’s Lock, with a possible mooring for the night.  This is the mouth of the River Thame flowing into the Thames, down from Dorchester.  It is navigable for boats with a draft of under 1ft, but not for us.

A magnificent specimen of a horse chestnut, these trees can grow up to 40m and live for 300 years.  It is full of flowers at the moment. It is native to the Balkan Peninsula, first introduced to the UK from Turkey in the late 16th century and widely planted.  

We came through Clifton Lock and met Curtis The Lock Keeper.  He and his wife live in the lock cottage and tend the gardens.  He sells cuttings from everything he grows and his hut has two large freezers full of ice cream which he also sells.  We decided to stay overnight on the moorings at the far end of the lock landing.

Ella is moored at the far end of the pontoon.  A wonderfully peaceful mooring, we sat out on the pontoon and even had a BBQ in the evening. We have had some delightful moorings and this has to be one of the nicest!

9 miles, 3 locks, 3hrs 57mins

Thursday 1st April - Clifton Lock to Abingdon

A short hop today to take us to Abingdon.  This is  one of the pumping stations linked to the Didcot Power Station before it was closed and demolished.  Water would have been pumped out of the river for cooling purposes and returned to the river afterwards. The signs warning boats are still in place.

We moored up in Abingdon on the play park side, again, all very quiet with only two or three boats around.  In Abingdon, temporary moorings for visiting boats are offered free of charge for a maximum stay of three nights. This policy aims to encourage boaters to visit and enjoy the town and its surroundings, while discouraging overstaying or misuse of the moorings.  We decided to take full advantage of this. 

Bun throwing is an iconic 400 year-old tradition which is unique to Abingdon-on-Thames, when specially made buns are thrown to residents from the top of the historic County Hall in the centre of Abingdon. Bun throwings are held to mark a royal occasion and Councillors in full ceremonial robes climb to the top of the County Hall and throw several thousand currant buns down at the chanting crowds filling the Market Place below.  The buns are always specially baked for the occasion and are often preserved by local families and visitors.  The Abingdon County Hall Museum has a selection of buns from previous bun throwings throughout the years and there is even a local cafe named after the tradition with old newspaper clippings and pictures on the walls. 

4.25 miles, 1 lock, 2hrs 6mins

Friday 2nd May - Abingdon

Abingdon Abbey was probably founded in the late seventh century, but its great days started when it was re-founded by Bishop Aethelwold and the Wessex kings about 950. It remained one of the foremost of the English abbeys, and at the dissolution of the Monasteries under Henry VIII its income was assessed as the sixth largest in the country. At that time it was probably the greatest landowner in the county of Berkshire, and also held property in many other parts of the country. The Abbey church was of a size and splendour comparable to any of the great cathedrals. Nothing of it remains, but its outline is marked out on the ground in the Abbey Gardens.  These ruins in the Abbey Gardens are Trendell's Folly, built in the nineteenth century.

Toby relaxing in the cool of the rear of the boat.

Saturday 3rd May - Abingdon to Sandford

A lovely morning and we watched the weekly Park Run set off on the opposite side of the river.  It was very well attended with a large crowd of runners and supporters.  We then set off for the lock and stopped above the lock to fill with water and dispose of all rubbish.

We had a good journey to Sandford Lock only to find that all the moorings were full.  The lock keeper was very helpful and offered us the mooring on the other side of the lock behind the Environmental launch.  It was a little tricky, we had to reverse the boat through wooden poles, passed other moored boats and then tuck in behind the launch.  The river was quite silted up so we could only go so far back and the bow of our boat had to be moored beside the launch.  A celebratory shandy, well earned!

Ella on her mooring, tucked in behind the Environmental Launch.  Despite being opposite the pub, we weren’t disturbed at all, possibly due to the rapid fall in temperatures!

5 miles, 2 locks, 2hrs 24mins

Sunday 4th May - Sandford to Oxford

A much colder day, we had to go back to long trousers and winter coats as the wind was really very cold!  Saying goodbye to Sandford Lock and our last mooring on the river for this trip.  It has been a brilliant experience and we’ve enjoyed every minute but I am looking forward to getting back to canals and smaller locks!

Ella in Isis Lock, the first narrow lock of this trip.  The cruise to here was very good although a little windy coming through Oxford and all the twists and turns.  We also had to negotiate a novice rowing boat of 4 rowers, who were struggling to keep their boat in a straight line, and managed to collide with another boat whilst we watched!

We moored on the canal and after some lunch we went for a walk into Oxford along Walton Street.  This is the Radcliffe Observatory.  The Radcliffe Observatory is a historical landmark and Green Templeton College’s centrepiece. Meteorological records commenced here in 1772, and for almost 200 years this listed building served as the only astronomical observatory of the University of Oxford (1773-1934). The Observatory has been used since as a medical research facility, a teaching centre and now a hub for the college. 

Hertford Bridge, better known as the Bridge of Sighs, is a famous bridge in Oxford. Heralded for its uniquely striking design, the bridge has become a landmark for sightseers. Completed in 1914, this beautiful bridge acts as a link between two Hertford College buildings.  This bridge symbolically links the old and new quads of Hertford College.

The Bodleian Library is one of the oldest libraries in Europe, and in Britain is second in size only to the British Library. Together, the Bodleian Libraries hold over 13 million printed items.  The Bodleian Library has been a library of legal deposit for 400 years.

The Radcliffe Camera is an iconic Oxford landmark and a working library, part of the central Bodleian Library complex.  It is linked to the Bodleian Old LIbrary by the underground Gladstone Link.  The Radcliffe Camera is home to the History Faculty Library (HFL).  The Radcliffe Camera is one of the most celebrated buildings in Oxford. Instantly recognizable, its great dome rises amid the Gothic spires of the University. Dr John Radcliffe was the most successful physician of his day. On his death in 1713 he directed that part of his large fortune should be used to build a library on a site at the heart of Oxford, between the University Church of St Mary's and the Bodleian.  The Radcliffe Camera is a great rotunda surmounted by Oxford's only dome, an architectural masterpiece and Britain's first circular library.

We ended up in the Turf Tavern for a drink.  Its foundations and use as a malt house and drinking tavern date back to 1381.  The low-beamed front bar area was put in place sometime in the 17th century.  It was originally called the Spotted Cow but the name was changed in 1842, as part of an effort to extinguish its reputation as a venue for illegal gambling activities.  It also features in the TV series Inspector Morse.

4.5 miles, 3 locks, 2hrs 30mins

Basingstoke Calling Spring 2025 Week 8

Monday 21st April - Cookham to Marlow

Today we are going to Marlow where we hope to get a mooring and stay for a special meal on Tuesday.

The river was like a millpond, little or no wind and therefore a gentle cruise through to Marlow.

Once we arrived there were only a couple of boats moored so we had a choice as to where to moor.  We were very surprised!

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We went for a walk in the afternoon and found this statue of Steve Redgrave celebrating his Olympic gold medals.  He is the most titled rower in history. Born in Marlow, he was the first British athlete to have won five Olympic gold medals.

Our mooring in Marlow, although it is Easter Monday it is still relatively quiet with plenty of spaces to moor.

3.25 miles, 1 lock, 1hr 54mins

Tuesday 22nd April - Marlow

We had a quiet morning on the boat with Toby having lots of walks and playing on the field as he is going to be left on the boat whilst we go out for dinner later today.

I spotted a fuel boat on the other side of the river and Dave hailed him over for diesel.  An excellent service and good price for the diesel.

Dave was intrigued by the white box moored outside this property, we decided it was floating but probably didn't actually go anywhere.

In the afternoon we left Toby on the boat and walked to The Hand and Flowers to have my birthday dinner.  We had a drink before going to our table, all very swish and pleasant.  The food was delicious and we had a really good time.

Standing outside the pub under the sign, a super end to my birthday celebrations.

Wednesday 23rd April - Marlow

We had planned on moving on today, but it was wet and quite windy, so we decided to stay one more day and have another wander around Marlow.  We walked down to the church and took the photo of Marlow bridge and The Compleat Angler on the opposite bank.  The suspension bridge was designed by William Tierney Clark and built between 1829 and 1832. 

The inside of the church was really quite huge and flooded with lots of natural light.  There are wide open arches down both sides of the aisle which allow the light to flood the church.

The present Church of All Saints is a Victorian creation, built after the spire of the old church collapsed in 1831. The old building was demolished, and a new church constructed of Bath stone, topped by a graceful spire soaring 170ft above the town. The combination of spire and bridge form one of the most unforgettable Thames sights.

Thursday 24th April - Marlow to Henley, Mill Meadows

The weather today is going to be much nicer so we set off and left Marlow behind.  This is Bisham Church just outside Marlow and just before Bisham Abbey National Sports Centre, a UK Sport Accredited Elite Training Centre providing world-class sporting facilities for individuals, the local community and some of the country’s leading sportsmen and women.

Leaving Temple Lock, the central arch of the bridge was blocked off so we had to go to the right or left.  The footbridge is closed due to safety concerns and it looks as though the issue is the centre of the bridge.

We stopped at Hurley Lock to fill up with water.  Just before the lock is Freebodys a famous Thames Boatyard.  The Freebody family have been trading on the Thames for over 300 years, and from the present site at Hurley as boatbuilders and restorers since the 1930s.

We continued towards Henley passing Temple Island. Temple Island is an elegant ornamental folly designed by the 18th century English architect James Wyatt commissioned by the Freeman Family and constructed in 1771. It was designed as a fishing lodge for Fawley Court , a nearby historic house also owned by the Freeman family.  It is now available for private hire.

Further along Henley Reach is Phyllis Court.  Granny, Dave’s Mum, used to visit here frequently for lunch with her friends.  Established in 1906, this beautiful private member club is situated in a grand riverside manor, nestled in 18 acres of manicured lawns and enjoys views of the River Thames and the Chilterns countryside beyond.



We continued under Henley Bridge and found a mooring on Mill Meadows, very quiet and peaceful.

8.25 miles, 3 locks, 3hrs 36mins

Friday 25th April - Henley

A quiet day in Henley.  We found The Willow Basket, a zero waste shop were we could refill our bottles for washing up liquid and toilet cleaner.  A fascinating story, Jane lives on a wide beam boat In Medmenham when the shop is open and lives in Weymouth when the shop is closed.  She also sells organic ice cream which sells really well during the summer season.  So worth looking up if you are ever down this way!

St Mary’s Church stands down by the river and there has been a place of worship here for over 1000 years.  The church has an outstanding choral and liturgical tradition.

Looking up Henley High Street, with lots of festive bunting, very pretty indeed.  We stopped for a spot of lunch at The Angel on the Bridge and then walked back along the river towards Marsh Lock.

We passed Thames Court on the opposite bank, Dave has stayed there when he played for the Berkshire Youth Orchestra preparing for the St Cecilia Concert when he was still at school.

On the way to the lock we saw a cormorant sitting at the edge of the river with its wings open. It must have been diving and was now sitting drying out the feathers.

Saturday 26th April - Henley to Sonning

Time to move on, today we are aiming for Sonning on Thames.  A village with lots of memories.  The lock keeper at Marsh lock was very jolly and provided a motivational saying for the day.  The approach to the lock was quite rocky as the weir is very close, he told me the weir was producing 20kwh of power today, but three weeks ago it was producing 300kwh.  I don’t think I would have enjoyed that at all!

This is Henley Sailing Club where Dave, his brother and his Dad all used to go sailing.  Dave doesn’t have any good memories of this as he didn't enjoy sailing with them!

The Commodore of the Sailing Club used to live in this house next door to the club, I wonder if it comes with the job of Commodore?

We found a mooring above Sonning Lock, a new stretch of mooring with posts at suitable intervals and a paved area.  The lock was self service and we were the only ones in it again.  

We walked through the churchyard to The Bull and had lunch in the garden.  We expected it to be busy but there was no problem getting a table and we had a very pleasant meal.

Sonning Church where Dave and I got married, Dave’s sister was married here, Laura was christened here, and both Dave’s parents had their funerals here.  It really is a pretty church and we had wedding photos in the grounds even though it was February and bitterly cold!

Both Dave’s parents sang in the choir here and as a boy, Dave was the cross bearer and sat in the pews on the left hand side of the aisle.  As I said lots of memories!

6.5 miles, 3 locks, 2hrs 30mins

Sunday 27th April - Sonning to Pangbourne Meadow

This morning we woke to perfect blue skies and a very still river reflecting the line of trees opposite.  Not a ripple to be seen!

So we decided to cruise and enjoy the stunning weather.

Heading towards Reading we went along Dreadnought Reach.  When we lived in Basingstoke, our girls were all in the Sea Cadets and we used to make an annual visit to this part of the river for the Canoeing and Pulling (Rowing) Competitions.  Happy days!

The entrance to the Kennet and Avon Canal, still on our bucket list to get to Bristol but not this time!

Here we are approaching Reading Bridge, it was opened in 1923 and was quite an unusual design.  The new bridge would be an elegant modern structure with graceful lines, it would be made of concrete, reinforced by steel bars, it would be 600 feet long with a span over the river of 180 feet and the largest structure in ferroconcrete in the UK and the longest single span.

Moored on the other side of the bridge was Whittington’s Tea Barge.  Whittington's Tea Barge, which is owned by the Chi family, recently reopened after a tree fell on the boat during a storm last December. It certainly looked to be doing a good trade and we got a cheery wave from the owners.

We found a mooring on Pangbourne Meadow and went for a stroll into the town and to look for The Swan pub.  We also found the River Pang as it flows into the Thames beside the weir.

The Swan pub gets a mention in Jerome K Jerome's classic 'Three Men in a Boat' - it was here that they abandoned their boat in the last chapter before getting a train to London for a good meal.

9 miles, 2 locks, 3hrs 6mins